Sale Language School

August 6th, 2007


I’m sure by this time that I’ve fallen beneath the radar of many of my (ex) regular readers since so much time has elapsed since I last graced these pages with scribblings. If I’m honest, I’m still suffering from the same reluctance with which I prefaced the last entry, namely, to relate the comings and goings of a relatively ordinary life, as opposed to reporting from far flung places about cycling round the world. However, I’m still getting occasional inquires as to what I’m up to, so here goes.

Actually, the following was written at the time of my last blog entry, but including it then would have put Martin my younger son in jeopardy as some of his colleagues had been following my journey via the site. However, he’s now resigned from his job at the local college and received his last pay cheque so we can now come clean about what we were planning. It could well have been viewed as in competition with the college and, therefore, in contravention of his employment contract – hence the secrecy.

We don’t yet quite have enough students to reach a break even situation but Sale Language School is up and running (www.salelanguageschool.co.uk); Its somewhat fraught gestation is outlined below, as written during the ‘heat of battle’ so to speak:

A few weeks before I arrived home, Martin had e mailed me with a rather cryptic proposition but didn’t explain what it was until we were sat down enjoying dinner and a glass of champagne on my first evening back. Having been an English teacher for ten years now, he knows the market. Given the number of foreign workers in Manchester, especially around the south of the City, he feels that a small private language school could attract enough students to constitute a viable business in that area. He’d started the ball rolling by locating suitable premises - a small suite of offices covering two floors above shops in Sale – and commenced negotiation of a lease agreement with the estate agent. I’ve agreed to help with setting up the business and, being a qualified TESOL teacher too, will do some part-time teaching once it’s up and running; until I head off on the next cycle ride that is! This is why I’ve chosen to stay west of the Pennines and what I was doing on odd days along side preparing the manuscript. Not wanting to outstay my welcome with Martin and Carrie, and given the location of the proposed school, before heading off to Yorkshire, I located a small flat in Sale and asked the agent to reserve it. On my return, I finalized a six months lease agreement and, on Tuesday 13th February, I moved in. It’s a basic, one-bedroomed place; the middle of three flats in a converted terraced house. Although on a fairly busy road, it’s quiet, especially at night, as the bedroom is at the back of the house. It’ll do me until I go travelling again.

Setting up the language school is proving problematic. The accommodation that we’d chosen is vacant and its previous use was as a small call centre. Consequently, to keep things strictly legal, we had to apply for ‘change of use’ planning permission from the local authority – a straightforward matter you might think. From my past experience I know that dealings with both central and local government can sometimes be difficult, but nothing prepared us for the bureaucratic nightmare that our application unleashed. You may remember that back in the late 80s and early 90s, the DTI, whilst promoting its support for small business, came up with the slogan “We’re from the government and we’re here to help you”. Of course the Department’s ‘interference’ usually resulted in more hindrance than help and, you may also remember, the slogan very quickly became a complete parody of the actual situation and the subject of many a comedian’s routine. I was reminded of this so vividly soon after our request hit Trafford MBC’s convoluted mechanisms.

I made a pre application initial inquiry by telephone to the Planning Department and had a very positive discussion with one of the planning officers. I outlined our proposal and gave him the address of the premises concerned. He pulled up the Department’s records while we were speaking, confirmed its current status and, although he stressed that he couldn’t give any guarantees, he thought that such activity in that area would be welcomed and was generally encouraging about the whole idea. I ordered the appropriate forms and, on the strength of this conversation, we paid the agent a non-returnable deposit of two months lease fee to take the premises off the market. The forms duly arrived and Martin and I sat down to complete the application. Essentially, this consisted of regurgitating the business plan in terms of numbers attending and modus operandi, and submitting detailed plans of exits, entrances and the uses of each room, including their position in relation to adjacent buildings, roads and walkways. I had a face-to-face meeting with the same officer in the Council’s building in Sale, where he very helpfully scrutinized our plans for their acceptability prior to our formally submitting them, which we duly did, along with the not inconsiderable fee. We were told that, where an application was straightforward, which ours was deemed to be, it didn’t need to go before the council’s planning committee and could be dealt with by the officers alone. So far so good.

Part of Trafford MBCs ‘Customer Care’ standards (another travesty) is to turn such applications round within eight weeks. The first five or six weeks of this period are to allow for objections to the new use of the building to be lodged. The period passed; no objections. We breathed a sigh of relief. An enquiry to the young woman planning officer who was now handling our application elicited the promise that she would visit the premises during her lunch break – they’re only a few hundred yards from her office - to make further investigations and get back to us. When I contacted her a couple of days later, she told me that the shopkeeper below one of the flats to one side of our premises, currently away in Spain, had once told him that he could hear a television; this dating back to the turn of the decade when the offices in question were a dwelling. On the strength of this, she had decided to put a condition on granting our permission that we must line the walls on both sides of our building. This is ridiculous. Although we plan to operate up to 8.30 in the evening, our small groups of foreign adults, at the most ten, would be making no more than ordinary conversational noise. We pleaded our case, both verbally and by e mail, going over yet again the quiet nature of our activities, but to no avail, she was adamant. Other conversations with planning officers at different times when I’ve been phoning the Department have come up with such phrases as “we always find something”, “we always attach conditions” or “this is normal”. Or to paraphrase them, accurately I think, “we’re not doing our jobs if we can’t find some conditions to attach to an application”. What a way to run a service. ‘We’re from the council. We’re here to help you!’ Although the work involves considerable construction and the relocation of radiators and electric sockets, and we’re sure that it’s totally unnecessary, reluctantly, we agreed to get the work done. Based on this, the young woman planning officer told Martin that she would grant permission for the change of use and pass it to her manager for ’signing off’ before the eight weeks were up.

14th March was the eight week deadline. Martin phoned madam planning officer to see why the permission hadn’t come through. I couldn’t believe what I was hearing when he later related the conversation to me. It seems that the Department’s manager, before signing the papers, noticed that, included on the plan was a car parking space, also part of our lease, but on the other side of a lane at the back of the building, along with other parking spaces for the adjacent shopkeepers. Since the plan showed that this parking space bordered the back yard of some flats, a further 21 days was to be allocated so that inquiries with the flats’ residents could be conducted. I was incandescent! This was way beyond the bounds of reason or common sense. The sale brass band (if there is one) could be playing in our building and not be heard in these flats. “We’ve been nobbled” I said to Martin. I was beginning to think that a conspiracy was afoot. They couldn’t give us an outright refusal, there weren’t any grounds, but someone was trying to wear us down to the point where we would withdraw. Influence from the local FE college perhaps. “I’ve had enough of brainless council bureaucrats” I thought. “It’s time to see what the councillors have to say”.

A little research yielded the names and numbers of six Sale councillors, but I was unable to determine which one represented the area where our proposed school was situated. I picked three likely ones and left messages on their telephone answer services. The first one to respond didn’t cover our area but seemed willing to listen to our problem. As soon as I got started, he stopped me to say that he was a member of the planning committee, so I should only ask my questions in general terms. However, in answering his clarifying questions, it wasn’t long before the full details of our situation came out. He agreed to continue on the proviso that, if the case did eventually end up being referred to the committee, he would have to withdraw from the deliberations. That was fine by me. I just wanted answers. He’d apparently been a member of the planning committee for 19 years and knew well all the officers concerned. He undertook to look into our case and get back to me which, to my surprise, he did, within a couple of hours. He’d spoken to the officers and was able to assure me that my conspiracy theories were unfounded. He said that our application was indeed viewed favourably, and that this latest delay was in order to protect the council, and us, from any potential legal action in the future. Again, he couldn’t give any guarantees but said that spurious objections wouldn’t be considered and that the permission would be granted. I was at least grateful for his help. We would have to be patient. Martin later got similar comments from madam planning officer.

In one respect it’s worse. The council officers aren’t mindless or corrupt after all; they’re simply following procedures. It’s the system that’s stupid. I can fully appreciate that society needs protection from people who would cut down trees, build on green fields, dangerously alter buildings or otherwise cause nuisance to neighbours, but common sense has gone out of the window. I remember a legal definition of ‘common sense’ as “something that the ordinary man in the street, or a man on a Clapham omnibus – and it was always a man – would consider reasonable”. But ‘common sense’ only seems to be legitimate when cited by a barrister in a court of law. It carries no weight if a lay person uses it. Council officers apparently have no notion of it. The 3 week period is gradually ticking by; we have our fingers crossed!

Having said all that above, I count amongst my friends people who work for local authorities; well adjusted, intelligent and sensible they seem to be too. There must be some sort of ’systemic common sense filter’ that clicks in once they arrive at work.

I’ll write again very soon and finish relating the birth of the school and talk about other things – including cycling!

More later

Bits ‘n Pieces in and around Sale

August 5th, 2007


Firstly, to continue with the Sale Language School (SLS) planning permission saga.

You may remember that we were waiting for the three week extension period to expire; this was imposed by Trafford Council’s Planning Department, on top of the eight week period that had already passed, in order that they could ascertain if there were any objections to our proposed use of the premises. This second period was so that they could make inquiries with residents in a block of flats to the rear of our premises. The deadline came and passed. We checked daily the Council’s web site where decisions are posted – nothing. Phone calls elicited answers along the lines of “so & so’s off today”, “we’re very busy”, “it’s coming soon”. Eventually, our reference number appeared on the screen; ‘permission – with conditions – granted’. We immediately got started on the building work in order to sound proof (totally unnecessary) either side of the classrooms. We’ve been running for about six weeks now. My commitment is currently three evening classes a week; the preparation is more arduous than the teaching.

Regular readers will know about my ‘green bent’. While we were waiting for the change of use planning permission to come through, I had some time on my hands. I was accosted one day whist out shopping by some Green Party members who asked me to sign their petition concerning recycling. One thing lead to another and I was very soon a party member and canvassing hard around the Trafford area in the run up to the local council elections. We stood a candidate in all of Trafford’s wards and managed to get more than 8% of the vote overall; not bad in a Tory borough. Some towns and cities now have enough Green Party councilors to hold sway on certain issues; Oxford, Lancaster and Kirklees to name but a few. So, maybe the Greens can now move from being a mere pressure group through to being influential and onwards to obtaining real political power in order to effect change; rather than the ‘green-wash’ of the mainstream parties. (www.traffordgreens.org.uk)

In amongst all the above activity I also managed to fit in a weekend over in Ulverston attending the NKT Buddhist Spring Festival. A 91 mile bike ride from Sale but a peaceful weekend and a chance to catch up with all my Buddhist acquaintances. Rain was forecast but the whole weekend was dry, albeit very cold camping.

Next was a ride back to Yorkshire to attend the annual CTC Cycle Rally at York. (www.ctc.org.uk) The Rally ran from the afternoon of Friday 21st June through to Sunday morning but I rode across the Pennines as far as Leeds on Thursday. It was an ideal day for cycling; a cool gentle southwesterly breeze and almost constant sunshine. After a pleasant evening with my friends Eddie and Carol in Leeds, I carried on in the rain to York Race Course. The rain continued on and off for the rest of the weekend and, although it completely flooded whole communities in South Yorkshire and gave us campers a rather damp pitch on the race course, it didn’t manage to ruin the Rally. There was all the usual stalls, stands, displays and exhibitors but the highlight of the weekend for me was to finally be able to scrutinize close-up a few of those Rohloff gear hubs that I’ve blogged about before. I’m impressed. I managed to talk to 3 or 4 people who’d been using them for a good few thousand miles and heard nothing but praise. My next bike is definitely going to have one. In fact I’ve found a bicycle coop here in Manchester (www.bicycledoctor.co.uk) who will build me a bike with a Rohloff hub. I might well order one soon. On Sunday I headed for Crossflatts on the outskirts of Bradford, riding sometimes through hub deep stretches of water, and stayed the night with Mike & Marielle at the Airedale Boat Club; another wet night. It wasn’t until I got back home to Sale and pulled up New 24 on the PC that I realized the extent of the flooding that I’d left behind.

The following weekend wasn’t forecast to be quite so wet so, having got all my kit dried by Wednesday, I set off again on Thursday for another ride down to Oxford; well, Sutton Courtenay to be precise – a small village just south of Abingdon. I spent a pleasant weekend with Stuart, son number one, and my granddaughter. Of course Oxford and its surrounds have since been inundated with water but I missed that.

In spite of all the above, my main focus has really been to get away for another long ride – one of the options detailed in my blog entry last April perhaps. But son number two surprised me a couple of weeks ago with some news that may just well keep me in Blighty for longer than I anticipated. I’m to be a granddad again. Him and Carrie are expecting a baby in January, so I intend to stay for the happy event and probably a bit beyond.

So, having lapsed into a routine of preparing lessons on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday mornings and teaching on those evenings, I got to wondering what to do for the rest of the time; one can only read and cycle for so long. Since returning home I’ve become very interested in cycle training and safer cycling on roads and, with my green hat on, passionate about getting more people young and old onto bikes and out of cars. If congestion isn’t effectively dealt with, it’ll soon become the only reliable way to commute. The old school ‘cycling proficiency’ training, often taught by non cyclists and in school playgrounds far removed from the traffic has at last bitten the dust – good riddance. In its place is the new national cycle training scheme, Bikeability. As a life-long tutor/trainer in many different subjects, I can say that it’s an excellently designed scheme. It covers at level 1 basic balancing and bike handling skills and goes right through to teaching how to ride confidently in busy traffic at level 3, covering such things as right turns on three lane duel carriageways with fast moving traffic, multi lane roundabouts and gyratories and filtering through congested city traffic. The course text is encompassed in a book entitled ‘Cyclecraft’ by John Franklin; I’ve read it from cover to cover and cannot recommend it too highly. It’s a must read for every cyclist from beginner to the most experienced; indeed it should be made compulsory reading for every road user whatever the mode of transport. I was so impressed with the new national standard that I signed up with an organisation here in Manchester, Bike Right! (www.bikeright.co.uk), and, over the last couple of weeks, have completed the instructor training course and will soon be on the national register. I’m hoping that I’ll be able to put it into practice soon. (www.bikeforall.net) good links to useful sites)

The flat that I’m renting is about 100 yards from the Bridgewater Canal and my most convenient route to the school and the centre of Sale is along the tow path. On the other side of the Canal is Sale Cruising Club. I frequently have twinges of regret as a walk alongside the water; I did so enjoy my 3 years living on the Leeds/Liverpool Canal across in Yorkshire. A few days ago I noticed one of the boats was up for sale. I couldn’t resist phoning the owner and having a look. It’s rather small, 30 feet long, my previous one was 50 feet. It’s quite old and rather scruffy both inside and out, consequently, not too expensive. But on the plus side, it comes with a mooring; they’re getting increasingly had to find. So, I could be back on the canal in the not too distant future. I’ve posted some pictures of my previous boat on the gallery; maybe some of you may appreciate what the attractions is.

Lastly, a word about health. Regular readers may remember the trouble I had with my knees whilst on the big ride, so much so that I honestly didn’t think I’d be able to finish when going through the last couple of provinces in Canada. One thing I never did do during the journey was a ’stand on the pedals’ start when trying to get a quick get away in too higher gear at junctions, or for extra push going up steep hills. In fact I hadn’t done such things for quite some time before starting the RTW, my knees just weren’t up to it. To my surprise, I’ve found myself doing just that pulling away from traffic lights in the last week or so. What’s happened you may ask? Well, I’ve long known that diet has a very marked effect on arthritis; my lack of meat in India helped considerably. In fact I’m sure it can be controlled completely once one has discovered the right diet. During my first trip down to Oxford since being back home, one of my son’s neighbours introduced me to an eating regime based on ones blood group. Some of what he said sounded plausible so, when I got home, I got hold of the book detailing the diet, ‘Live Right for Your Type’ by Dr Peter J D’Adamo. With a name like that he’s got to be a Californian but his ideas are well researched both by him and his father before him – and they really work. Of course one has to know ones blood group; not a problem for me as a life long donor; I’m O Rh Neg. To my surprise, some meats were ok for me, lamb, beef, venison and others. But the big nos for O groups are wheat and ordinary potatoes. At home that doesn’t pose a problem; most good food shops will stock rye bread and sweet potatoes, but when away it’s almost impossible to avoid wheat. As well as bread, it’s in almost everything processed. The diet isn’t primarily aimed at arthritis though; it’s aimed at promoting good health generally. It works for me. (www.dadamo.com)

And absolutely lastly, It’s great being sixty; I’ve got my old codger’s travel pass; I go free on all buses and trains in Greater Manchester. What a pity I’m a cyclist!

I’m still alive! Blogging again

April 3rd, 2007


I approached the writing of this log entry with a certain amount of reluctance and ambivalence. My journey finished in December last year and, although I’ve done some cycling, I didn’t really feel that the minutiae of my existence now back in UK would be of interest to anyone, or worth reporting. I know lots of people do it and some of their blogs make interesting reading but, for me, it has the feel of something akin to an egotistical exercise. It’s one thing to keep a personal diary but another altogether to broadcast it far and wide. In a completely different league, but it smacks of the sort of nonsense one might read in the likes of OK Magazine. However, in spite of the above, I’ve had quite a few e mails asking what I’m up to now; indeed, some actually encouraging me to get blogging again. So, I decided to try and overcome my disinclination and pen another report.

When I arrived at my son and daughter-in-law’s house in Worsely, Manchester, after the trip, the Christmas holiday was nearly upon us. Before the festivities started, I made a lighting trip by train down to Kent to touch base with my sister, who’d been looking after my finances while I was away. Of course it was nice to see her and her husband but my main aim was to find out just how profligate I’d been during my pedalling escapade. A visit to the bank determined that, although there was now a significant hole in my savings, it wasn’t as bad as I’d first thought. All those hotels and motels in eastern Canada had left me with the impression that the whole trip had been a costly affair but, balanced against camping and the cheaper accommodation in Asia, things had evened out somewhat. I won’t have to start selling ‘The Big Issue’ just yet!

When I got back to Manchester, Martin was just about to head off to the airport with Carrie. It had been a couple of years since they’d both been back to China so Carrie had decided to spend the holiday with her parents and friends in and around Xian. She had an enjoyable couple of weeks back home by all accounts. On Christmas eve, Martin and I drove to John Lennon Airport, Liverpool, to catch a pre-booked flight to Aldergrove, Belfast Airport to spend a few days with his mum, my ex. The irony of jumping on an aeroplane to hop over the Irish Sea, after spending the previous 17 months trying to avoid flying for environmental reasons, didn’t escape me. It did give rise to a slight twinge of conscience. I marvelled, though, at how easy the whole process was. Martin had booked the tickets on the internet and, apart from security checks, we virtually just walked onto the aircraft; no pre-numbered seats; just like boarding a bus. No wonder so many people now fly everywhere – it’s just too easy. Green issues are at long last starting to take their rightful place at the top of the political agenda – in fact just recently, they seem to be completely dominating the news – but it’s still only a debate. The party leaders are vying with one another to see who can promise to tax carbon emission producers the most; garnering votes for a forthcoming election. But it’s all in the future. Recent history shows us that most of these targets are simply a process of putting things off. None have so far been met and there’s little chance of achieving them by the due dates either. Very few people seem to be doing anything NOW. The idea of ‘carbon offsetting’ does, to my mind, have some credence; ie, paying for a few trees to be planted to make up for one’s flight. Far better not to fly in the first place though. On the other hand, allowing organisations to trade in carbon credits is a complete red herring. It encourages the mindset that it’s ok to pollute as long as one can pay for it. The message should be ‘Stop Polluting!’ As usual, I digress. We had a very pleasant few days, lounging about and overeating in the delightful setting of rural County Down.

Once back in Manchester, I settled down in front of the computer, pulled up all 105 of the blog reports, and set about trying to make them into a manuscript. I’d already turned them into a ‘word’ document at the behest of Dorothy, the publishing consultant, and spell-checked them before leaving Canada. The task now was to change tenses where necessary, get rid of the elements of blog format and tidy up the whole document generally, attempting to make it flow into a continuous story. I also had to write an introduction. Dorothy had given me some tips on its contents but I still found it far from easy to write. It needed to be biographical in nature. It had to ’set the scene’; to explain what led up to the journey and why I decided to do it in the first place. I’m still not sure that I know the answer completely. Anyway, the whole process took six or seven working days, but these were interspersed with tasks carried out for Martin, which I’ll mention later. Finally, I was able to e mail Dorothy in Halifax, Nova Scotia with what might be a publishable document. She’s made approaches to a few publishers. We’re waiting.

Before commencing the journey and whilst pedalling around, I gave very little thought as to where I would live or what I might do when I finally arrived home. I suppose I had a vague idea that I’d return to my beloved Yorkshire. I don’t hail from there but still regard it as the best part of England. It wasn’t until Martin’s suggestion of what I might do on return – more about that later – that I contemplated stopping anywhere other than the country’s largest county. Nevertheless, I still wanted to go back across the Pennines and meet up with all my old friends and colleagues. Now that I’d finished work on the manuscript, for the time being at least, it seemed appropriate to get on my bike and head east for the hills.

I loaded a couple of panniers and set off on Saturday 27th January. First stop was the Losang Dragpa Buddhist Centre at Dobroyd Castle, high in the hills above Todmorden. It was only a 28 mile ride but culminated in a very steep climb on a single track road out of the Calder Valley. As hard as it was, I’m pleased to report that I was still able to manage the hill atop the bike. I lived up there for seven years – my cottage was in the Castle grounds – and that hill never gets any easier! A large portion of the population of these centres tends to be transient, however, I met up with old friends and had lunch with some of the regular visitors on Sunday. Then, after repairing my first puncture back in UK, it was off to Keighley for a palatial stay with my friends in their large house on the outskirts of the town. What a contrast; from cold, basic accommodation to five star luxury. They were so helpful when I was sick in Islamabad, and arranged for bike parts to be sent out to New Delhi. Then on Tuesday, I moved on to the Kashyapa Buddhist Centre in Bradford; back to basics. I spent the week meeting up with many of my old friends, colleagues and acquaintances in and around Keighley, Saltaire, Bradford and Leeds. It was great to spend an evening on the Leeds/Liverpool Canal with Mike and Marrielle, my ex narrow boat neighbours. Mike is English and Marrielle Dutch and they met in India whilst travelling independently. They’ve been travelling together ever since. Whilst I’d been away they’d undertaken an expedition of their own. It was in the planning stage when I left. They adapted a car and drove from Yorkshire, first to Holland, then down through Europe, North Africa, West Africa and onto the Nigerian border; and back. So, we all three had stories to tell. Then there was lunch with my ex boss from the Probation Service. She interceded on my behalf in order to secure a Pakistani visa when I was languishing in Istanbul. Dinner with friends in Leeds and drinks with my old tutor colleagues from Probation nicely capped of a nostalgic but nonetheless pleasant week. As I rode back across the Pennines on Saturday 3rd February, on still frosty roads but in brilliant sunshine, I couldn’t help thinking that it would be nice to buy another boat, rejoin the boat club and simply pick up where I left off. The hills up from Ripponden and down towards Littleborough soon served to shake off the mild bout of melancholy though. It’s not always wise to look backwards! The whole round trip was just over 100 miles.

Not wanting to outstay my welcome with Martin and Carrie, before heading off to Yorkshire, I located a small flat in Sale, south Manchester and asked the agent to reserve it. On my return, I finalised a six months lease agreement and, on Tuesday 13th February, I moved in. It’s a basic, one-bedroomed place; the middle of three flats in a converted terraced house. Although on a fairly busy road, it’s quiet, especially at night, as the bedroom is at the back of the house. It’ll do me until I go travelling again.

At this point, I’d intended to relate what, apart from producing the book, has been my main preoccupation since returning, and the cause of me choosing to stay west of the Pennines. Unfortunately, for the time being, I’m unable to go into the reasons here. Sorry to be somewhat cryptic but everyone I’ve met face to face knows what I’m up to, and anyone else of my acquaintance who’s dying to know can e mail and I’ll explain. I just can’t broadcast it for the time being.

Impatience waiting for Dorothy, and slight pessimism that she will actually be able to strike a publishing deal, led me to look at the increasingly popular medium of self publishing; what used to be called the ‘vanity press’. It’s not cheap but it does at least guarantee that one gets one’s book printed, ISBN registered, copy-writed and into the market place. I found a publisher that facilitates the process and was invited to an evening seminar at their offices in Milton Keynes. Ordinarily, I wouldn’t entertain such a journey just for a couple of hours in the evening but, my eldest son, Stuart, the one who set up and looked after the web site during the journey, lives and works in Oxford, not a million miles from Milton Keynes. So, I decided to kill two birds with one stone and catch up with him and my grand-daughter who I’d seen precious little of.

The long range weather forecast was looking ok so I decided to cycle down. I left on Wednesday 21st March, making it to Hinkley on the first day - 89 miles. The second day, on to M. Keynes, was only 49 miles but the conditions were horrendous; constant rain and a stiff head wind. As usual, the weather system was coming in from the west but, being cyclonic, was producing winds straight out of the south east, my direction of travel down the A5. By the time I booked into the Holiday Inn, the nearest hotel to the publishers, I was well and truly knackered! The seminar was that evening. The next day, I turned south-westwards and headed for Oxford where Stuart lives and works. The wind turned with me - a headwind again. At least it was dry and sunny. After a pleasant weekend, I headed back north on Monday; headwinds again but no rain. The final leg, from the Travel Lodge at Tamworth, on Tuesday, was wet and very blustery, but mostly tailwinds so I made good time. A hard 350 mile round trip. Having ascertained the rail fare before I left Manchester, I estimated that cycling down cost about 8 times more in hotel bills. So much for being green!

The seminar was worth attending. So much so that, within the next couple of days, I’ve resolved to contact my allotted publishing advisor, part with yet more money and get the ball rolling. It’ll still be months rather than weeks until the finished article is available to order though.

It would be possible to just up-sticks and go on another long ride but, in the event that I actually do live for some time past pensionable age, I don’t want to completely empty the bank. Therefore, I really want to try and secure some sort of income before I go off again. Given the blogging that I managed to do last time, it seems sensible to try and persuade a number of appropriate magazines, papers, periodicals to part with some money for printing my scribblings. Although not dependent on it, my chances of concluding such a deal would be greatly enhanced if I was already published so, getting the book out there takes on a degree of urgency.

I’ve got three ideas as options for the next jaunt:

Antipodes – Europe

Starting off on the southern island of New Zealand, then working up through both main Islands, south to north Australia, then Papua New Guinea, or more likely Indonesia. Island hop up through to Singapore, then retrace my steps from the last trip in the opposite direction through Malaysia and Thailand but then, instead of turning west to the Indian Subcontinent, carry on north through Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, China, Mongolia, then turn west through the ’stans, the old Soviet republics, and finally to Europe and back home. This is probably further than my last trip and would take some careful timing with regard to the seasons.

The Americas

Starting up in Alaska or Northern Canada on either the Alaska or Dempster Highways and working down through Canada, West Coast US, Mexico then Central and South America. Another long run and, again, care needed with timing, especially at the start. I could do with learning some Spanish for that one too.

Round the North Sea

Much closer to home this time. I could start this one on the Yorkshire coast, going south to Dover, across to Calais, then France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Denmark. Up through Scandinavia, then a ferry across to Scotland and south again down the coast to Yorkshire. 6000 km by all accounts. The same distance as west to east across Canada so, about a three month ride.

These are the sort of itineraries I would be offering to potential publishers. All of them would present a considerable challenge but as long as my knees don’t get any worse and the rest of my body holds together, I should be able to manage them. They should also be able to provide plenty of experiences to write about that would be of interest to readers, cyclists or not.

Readers who followed the last trip may remember that I waxed and waned with regard to the suitability of my bike for the terrain that I was covering, especially when road conditions were very bad and when I compared it with the machines ridden by other long-haulers outside Europe. On the whole, though, it stood up really well and, anyway, with such varied conditions, any choice of bike has to be a compromise. Nevertheless, I’m considering going for a different steed for the next long ride. Last time, I was sorely tempted by the 14 speed, Rohloff internal hub gear system. I tried to arrange a test ride of a bike equipped with one but failed. It would have meant a trip down to the west country. So, in the end, I played safe and opted for a conventional derailleur. The Rohloff system seems to have established a trouble free track record now and it’s caught my eye again. The big advantage is all internal workings; nothing to be bashed, broken or collect dirt and dust. On the downside, it would be impossible to repair outside Europe. If all the reports are to be believed, it shouldn’t fail anyway. The bike that’s taken my fancy is the Thorn Raven Nomad S&S; it gets a good write-up in the cycling magazines. I might just take a trip down to Bridgwater to see what all the fuss is about before the next trip.

There’s much more I could talk about but I fear I’ve probably tried the patience of even my staunchest readers by now. I’ll write again when I’m able to go into detail about what I’m up to in Sale and/or when I’ve made some progress with the book.

More later

Welcome from Rainy Manchester – Back in Blighty at Last!

December 22nd, 2006


The MV Reinbek finally docked in Liverpool at around 1800 hours on Saturday 16th December, but I stayed on board that night so that I could cycle in daylight the following day. In spite of a forecast of dry weather, Sunday dawned wet and miserable – just as I always expected – it made me feel at home. But, first, to go back to Montreal where I left off the last report.

As it was likely that I would be boarding the ship on Monday, I tried making contact with the shipping agent in Montreal on Saturday, a few hours after arriving – as instructed by the travel agent in Connecticut – but was only able to leave messages on answer phones. Consequently, I still had no idea how long I’d be waiting in the City but my hosts seemed determined to make sure I enjoyed the stay – they succeeded. Henry and Emily joined Victor, Hannah and me for dinner on that Saturday evening. It was like meeting old friends again; another very enjoyable get together. On Sunday, Henry volunteered to undertake a reconnaissance with me to discover the location of the Shipping agent’s offices. With the aid of his city map, we headed east along Rue Notre Dam on the very route that I’d cycled away from the City all those weeks ago. As luck would have it, the offices were right along side the river at Cast Quay, a large container terminal where the Reinbek was due to dock and turn around its cargo. In spite of it being Sunday, the terminal seemed to be in full swing, with many cranes doing exactly that, and we also managed to find at least one member of staff working in the agent’s office. He was able to tell us that the Reinbek had been delayed but didn’t know when it would arrive and advised phoning in the morning. Sunday evening was given over to culture. After dinner with the same four people, but this time at Henry & Emily’s house, we headed off to the Our Lady of Perpetual Help Catholic Church in another part of town to attend an Advent Concert featuring some of Mozart’s sacred music. The first part of the programme was instrumental, with the music being provided by an organist, two violinists and a cellist. Then they accompanied a seventeen person male and female choir who, among other items, sung one of Mozart’s masses. It was great to hear the Kyrie, Gloria, Credo, Sanctus, Benedictus and Agnus Dei sung in Latin as they were intended to be, and reminded me of my own school choir days, before my voice inevitably became the tuneless croak that it is today.

Another telephone call to the shipping office on Monday morning allowed me at last to speak to one of the agents named in the many e mails that I’d received from Maris in Connecticut. He confirmed that they had me listed as a passenger and that the ship had indeed been delayed. His best guess was that it would be docking near the end of the week and sailing at the weekend and suggested that I phone again on Wednesday when it was likely that he’d have a better idea of timings. On Wednesday, the agent confidently predicted that it would dock on Thursday and he suggested that I arrive at Cast Quay to board at 1400 hours on Friday, ready for a sailing that evening. At least now I had a date and time to work to.

The ‘social whirl’ continued throughout the week, interspersed with such mundane chores as shopping and dog walking. But even these simple things, carried on as they were in a, for me, strange and vibrant city, and with such wonderful people, were enjoyable. It’s difficult to pick out the highlights but I do need to mention some.
Hannah is currently undertaking a course of study at the Thomas Moore Institute, a prestigious academic centre in Montreal. Her last class before the Christmas break was taking place on Wednesday 6th and she invited me to tag along. We arrived at the Institute just as the twenty or so other ‘students’ were seating themselves round a large circular table and spreading out the various bottles and goodies to eat that they’d brought along, this being the festive season. The format of the class was by way of a discussion, based on the participants’ pre reading, jointly chaired by a man and a woman, whose names presently escape me. The course leader, a distinguished-looking senior practicing psychiatrist and academic, who I’d briefly been introduced to at the above mentioned concert, sat to one side and interjected occasionally as he felt necessary. Hannah must have talked to the group about me since my previous visit. When she introduced me, they seemed to know what I was up to, and the first part of the session was given over to me talking about the journey, with them asking questions. As one might imagine, the probing from a group such as this wasn’t limited to the more prosaic subjects that I’m used to by now – punctures, distances, weather etc - they were into more esoteric matters; my motivation for undertaking the venture, my feelings at various points, how I coped mentally in certain situations, people’s reactions to me etc. I found that being ‘put on the spot’ in this way was a useful exercise. My thinking on these questions is still decidedly fuzzy and having to respond has helped me to try and formulate some sensible answers. I’m not there yet but, according to Dorothy, the publishing consultant, these are questions that I must address properly if I’m going to turn this blog into a manuscript. I was invited to join in during the rest of the class proper. It was very interesting and I did get involved in the debate at a few junctures. If I mention that the course is based on a large tome entitled ‘Zen & the Brain’ you’ll have some idea of the nature of the discussion.

As previously reported, whilst in Halifax, I visited Pier 21, a museum on the harbour side dedicated to the comings and goings by sea of soldiers and migrants over the last couple of centuries. Part of the visit included a film and slide show, featuring stories from immigrants and officials of all kinds, mostly portrayed by actors. Victor, born in Canada and a Canadian citizen, is of Lithuanian extraction. His parents, both in their nineties, came round for dinner one evening and, after the meal, began to talk about their experiences before, during and after, WWII. After a while, they got round to describing their arrival in Canada as displaced persons. Victor’s mother, in her halting English, related so poignantly how they had left Europe, travelled across the Atlantic by ship, their arrival in Halifax, their dealings with the immigration officials, the lack of money, their onward journey by train and subsequent arrival in Montreal. She could have been one of those actors in the Pier 21 slide show. For me this was amazing. Here was someone sat across the table relating the recent history of Canada who had actually lived and experienced it. Victor’s father apparently kept a diary of these events but it was inadvertently destroyed some time ago. They both have such amazing stories to tell, and I do hope that someone manages to record them for posterity before it’s too late.

Then there was lunch with Matthew, Hannah & Victor’s son. He’s a very knowledgeable, personable and forthright young man, impatient to put the world to rights. We had a great meal in a little vegetarian restaurant near to where he lives whilst discussing politics, religion, war, green issues and all things metaphysical. We rearranged the world to our liking. Lunch finished at 4 pm.

On my last evening in Montreal, we dined at the home of Barry & Silvi. Barry is another student on the same course as Hannah, although he already has a number of bachelor and masters degrees I hasten to add, and is just doing the course “for fun”. The invitation came during the class earlier in the week but we couldn’t confirm the arrangement until I had a firm sailing date. They live in a beautiful house half way up the mountain overlooking Montreal, in the dining room of which some ten of us sat down to a tasty fish dinner with suitable wine and all the trimmings. Other members of the course were also among the diners and the after dinner conversation felt like a somewhat less formal extension to the class. The whole event made for a very pleasant last evening in Montreal.

Friday 8th December dawned bright and cold. I packed my panniers and after breakfast, donned my woolly hat and the warm sheepskin coat that Hannah & Victor had given me to keep out the biting Montreal winter, and headed out towards the shops. I needed some spare batteries and a few euros, the currency used aboard the ship, so I’d been told. Dressed as I was, the chill still penetrated through and my nose ached with the cold, in turn giving me a headache. I noticed that anyone who needed to spend time on the streets – policemen, parking attendants etc, wore padded clothing, plus scarves and/or balaclavas, so that only their eyes were exposed. Back at the house, Henry turned up and we sat down to an early lunch before loading my bike and luggage into the back of his car and setting off for Cast Quay, with Victor and Hannah following on behind. We could see the MV Reinbek berthed alongside adjacent to the shipping agent’s office as we pulled into the car park. I made my way to the barrier and explained to the security guard that I was a passenger and had a bicycle plus luggage to go on board and asked if my friends could come onto the dock to see me off. “No” was his immediate reply. “Only you can enter and you’ll have to be transported to the ship”. This quickly turned into a farcical situation. As we were having the conversation, we were virtually overshadowed by the vessel in question; I could almost spit on the damn thing! Port security sent a car to take me the few yards to the Reinbek, the boot (trunk) of which was full of security paraphernalia. Had it been empty, the bike would not have fitted in. Eventually, common sense prevailed and the security guard allowed Henry to drive his car, complete with bike, luggage, Victor, Hannah and me, to follow the port car onto the dock and deposit us all at the Reinbek’s gangway. Henry helped me lug the bike and panniers up onto the ship then we three posed on the quayside while Victor took some snaps near the stern of the ship. (check out the gallery) Farewell hugs all round and I climbed back up the gangway just in time to wave goodbye as they drove off the dock and back to Montreal.

Although he didn’t ask for it, I showed my passport to one of the Filipino crew on deck. He welcomed me aboard, grabbed some of my luggage and, with me carrying the rest of it, showed me to my cabin on deck 10. The gangway from the quayside reached the ship at deck 6 and there were two flights of stairs between each deck, which meant that we had to climb 8 flights. Many of the white-painted steel steps were covered in ice but my specially purchased shoes from Montreal coped well; cycling shoes with steel cleats in the soles would’ve been lethal in that situation. During the climb between decks, I did start to feel a little apprehensive. “If this is what it’s like in Montreal, what’s it going to be like moving between decks whilst being tossed about in the middle of an icy North Atlantic?” I thought to myself. We were going up the starboard side of the ship and, at that time, I didn’t realise that there was a completely covered-in stairway connecting all decks on the port side. Meanwhile, my bike was being whisked away to the bowels of the ship by another crew member, and I didn’t see it again till the day before we arrived in Liverpool. I was pleasantly surprised on being shown into cabin number 2. As one would expect on a cargo vessel it was small, but it contained a wardrobe, desk, table, chair, couch and a bunk. It had an en suite toilet, wash basin and shower and was equipped with a small fridge and music centre cum AM/FM radio. A porthole, or rather more a window really, let onto the fore of the ship, overlooking the open cargo deck. I dumped my bags in the centre of the cabin and went off in search of some coffee, which I was told would be available in the officer’s mess on deck 7 – using the covered stairway on the port side this time. (I don’t think the term ‘wardroom’ is used on civilian ships) Suitably refreshed, I made my way back to deck 10 and proceeded to unpack and settle in. Presently, there was a knock at the door. Another Filipino crew member dressed in white was stood there when I opened it. He introduced himself as Sharon, the head cook and steward, and handed me a box of chocolates. “Compliments of the Captain” he said, and went on to explain about meal times and some of the ship’s routine. I thanked him and told him that I thought I was going to enjoy the voyage. I meant it too. After a slippery start, things seemed to be getting better all the time!

I met the Master at dinner that evening. He was Lithuanian, a thin dark-haired almost boyish man who certainly didn’t look his forty odd years. He was friendly enough but had a sort of brooding air about him. I was overjoyed when he offered me, weather and crew activities permitting, unrestricted access to all parts of the ship, however, with a caveat that, for safety reasons, I must let someone know if I was visiting the engine room or venturing forward on deck. There were 21 of us in total on board. The chief officer, chief engineer and electrician were all Latvians but, along with the master, were ethnic Russians and spoke Russian amongst themselves most of the time. The rest of the crew bar one were Filipino, the other being from Fiji. They proved to be a happy and efficient bunch but, like all seamen I suppose, admitted to occasionally missing their homes and families. All the paperwork that I’d received in connection with organising the voyage indicated that the Reinbek was a German registered vessel, in fact about 70% was written in German. So, imagine my surprise on boarding to see the Red Duster fluttering out aft, and ‘LONDON’ in large letters on the stern under the vessel’s name. Less than two years old, I subsequently discovered that the ship, although still owned by a German company, had been re-flagged just a few months ago in September for economic reasons. Apparently, German shipping rules state that the Master and Chief Engineer must be nationals of that country and consequently cost more, whereas us brits don’t make such demands; we merely insist on the crew being appropriately qualified and the ship meeting our safety standards, both of which were quite obviously apparent throughout the trip.

The agent had told me that the ship would sail at 2200 hours. When I boarded, the cargo deck was virtually empty of containers. The last few were being lifted out of the aft sections whilst another crane was loading the first few into the forward compartments. The cranes work swiftly and steadily but, even to my inexperienced eye, it was impossible to see how they’d be finished by 10 pm. At dinner the master rather optimistically revised the sailing time to midnight but later, the chief officer suggested it would be more like 0200 hours. I drifted off to sleep listening to the whirring of the cranes outside my window, and feeling the occasional shudder as a container was plonked down rather heavily. The ceasing of such sounds must have awoken me. I knelt on the couch, drew back the blinds and looked out of the window. It was 0315 hours. The cranes were idle. Our mooring ropes were no longer to be seen. Almost imperceptibly at first, and without any apparent change in engine noise, we edged away from the quay. The ship’s fore and aft bow thrusters must have been employed in this manoeuvre. Very gradually, we eased our way out into the middle of the St Lawrence, all the while spinning slowly round to head downstream in a north-easterly direction. I’d finally left Canada – terra firma that is; it would be another couple of days before I finally quite Canadian territory.

I went back to bed but sleep evaded me. I was just too excited. Like a schoolboy locked in a chocolate factory; I wanted to see everything, know how everything worked and experience every part of the journey. I made my way to the bridge which is in fact the top room on the ship, deck 13. The bridge roof is deck 14 and supports all the antenna systems, the radar and the emergency old-fashioned magnetic compass. There was a trip switch that turns off the stairway lights when one opens the door. The room itself is kept in complete darkness at night, save for the faint glow from the radar screen and other controls. I closed the door behind me and stood just inside for half a minute or so, until my eyes accustomed themselves to the gloom, by which time I could make out the shapes of the people on the bridge. A young able seaman was stood holding the wheel (It’s called a wheel but is really just a very small semi circle, which looked as though it would be more at home on a go kart or gaming console rather than controlling a 169 m long ship). The first officer was seated in one of the two chairs in front of the main control console, it was his watch, and the French Canadian pilot was stood at the front of the bridge looking intently out of the window. The red and green lights on the buoys denoting port and starboard extremities of the shipping lane were just visible in the distance. I marvelled at how well the pilot knew his river. He would call out a bearing, which the helmsman would repeat, make the adjustment then repeat again once the ship had moved round to that heading. As dawn gradually crept over the horizon, I got into conversation with him. He told me about his early years of deep sea experience and about the six to ten years of training required to become a fully qualified St Lawrence River pilot. His latest interest was horses, riding and training them. About my age, he was looking forward to retiring soon and following his equestrian interests. Each pilot covers a set stretch of the and a cutter drew along side the ship in Quebec City where he left us and another one, also French Canadian, joined us.

And so we gradually made our way down the St Lawrence. Before Quebec City, and for some time after, I could recognise some of the villages and scenes on first the north and then the south bank of the River; they’d been part of my cycle route. But after Riveire Du Loup, where I turned south, it was all new to me. I had travelled along the southern bank during the train ride back to Montreal, but that was during the night so nothing was recognisable. Anyway, the river was too wide to see much of the land by this time. We dropped our last pilot off onto his cutter at 1900 hours on Saturday and continued on what was now essentially open water without navigational assistance.

There was no computer access for me on the ship but I did have a paper copy of my blog and should really have been working on turning it into a manuscript. However, there was too much to see and do on board; the copy sat on the desk in my cabin and I found it all but impossible to turn the pages. I settled into a routine. A visit to the bridge before breakfast, where I would go straight to the chart table, read off the longitude and latitude from the sat nav receiver and, in spite of the fact that the watch keeper had invariably already marked it on the map, I would plot our position for myself. On Sunday 10th December we were cruising through the Gulf of St Lawrence south of Anticosti Island. By this time the ship was pitching and rolling from side to side, but not half as much as it subsequently did when we hit the Atlantic swell proper. Three officers shared the watch keeping, rotating throughout the 24 hours, with the Chief Officer normally doing his stint before breakfast. We chatted before I went below to eat. He showed me how the complete voyage had been programmed into the ship’s navigational computer. The ship would proceed on a suitable bearing to each waypoint, then change direction in order to proceed to the next and so on, with a straight line between waypoints to the south of Newfoundland and the south of Ireland, before heading north again up the Irish Sea. All this without any human interference. Essentially, the watch keeper’s task was to keep and eye on the radar and/or a visual watch and make sure all the controls were functioning properly. Being an open-decked vessel, the bilges frequently took in water and an alarm would sound indicating this. It was then a simple matter to bring up a diagram of the pumping system onto the computer screen, then using the mouse to open the appropriate valves and activate the appropriate pumps to empty them out again; just like the ‘fly by wire’ systems on modern aircraft. Speed was set for 18.5 knots and never changed from the moment we said goodbye to the last St Lawrence pilot to the point were we rounded Anglesey Island. The third officer told me that it would take at least 3.5 nautical miles in order to effect and emergency stop going at that pace.

Apart from climbing up and down the stairs between decks, it was apparent that I wasn’t going to get much exercise during the voyage so, after breakfast on that Sunday I decided to try out the ship’s gym, located next to the engine control room. It was a very small affair consisting of a weights bench, a cycle machine and a tiny sauna in one corner. In the past I’ve normally scoffed at cycle machines, suggesting to users in a rather superior way that they should “get their kit on and hit the road”. People had jokingly suggested that I should cycle round the ship during the voyage but even with an empty deck and weather permitting, the walkways weren’t wide enough to allow such activity so, here was a justifiable situation to use one. I did 35 minutes with the machine set at its highest resistance which recorded a distance of 10 km; something near my normal road speed. Dressed in shorts and T shirt, it was enough to get me a good sweat on anyway and keep the knee joints working.

The 2nd mate had contacted me the day before and we’d arranged to meet in the mess just after the mid morning coffee break where he was going to give me my safety briefing. Presumably he’d arranged the time so that I was at least partly familiar with the ship but it was before we hit the potentially hazardous part of the voyage – the vast expanse of open water that is the North Atlantic. It didn’t take long. He told me about the different alarms, how they sounded and how to respond. He showed me how and when to don my buoyancy aid and/or immersion suit which I’d already located under my bunk in the cabin. We went to deck 6 where he showed me the general muster point, then to deck 8 where the main all-enclosed orange-coloured life boat was situated, on a slide where it could be quickly released to fall into the sea. We didn’t go inside but it looked so small that I doubted if it could accommodate all 21 of us. He assured me that it could and that it contained water and emergency rations. I was then shown the inflatable life rafts in their canisters which could be fired off the side of the ship. Finally, he got me to sign papers to attest to the fact that I’d understood all the safety measures. All in all, it was a thorough briefing and I could see that, at least in theory, all angles had been covered. It left me feeling that, if the ship did sink, we’d have a fighting chance of survival. We put the clocks forward by one hour on Sunday too, and did the same each day until we were off the coast of Southern Ireland; four consecutive 23 hour days.

When I checked the chart on the morning of Monday 11th, we’d reached a point off the southern tip of Newfoundland. The Atlantic swell was upon us now and the ship was rolling well from side to side. The bow seemed to swing through five or ten degrees as it came down off each wave but the automatic controls were able to maintain an accurate mean course whichever way the sea threw us. All the chairs had metal eyes screwed into the underside of their seats. Other eyes were secured to the deck equally placed around the tables, which were themselves bolted down. My cabin had the same arrangement. These eyes were now connected by bungee cords which prevented the chairs from being thrown about the cabins and mess decks. The tables were spread with cloths made of a sort of fine rubber beaded material which prevented plates, cups, utensils etc from sliding off. And I quickly learned not to fill a glass, cup or bowl more than half full. It was a rocky time!

Before dusk on Monday 11th December it felt much warmer. I looked at the outside thermometer through the bridge window at one point and noticed that the temperature was 1 degree above freezing; we were being bathed in the Gulf Steam. It was warm enough to stand for a few minutes in the sheltered part of the open stairway adjacent to my cabin wearing just a T shirt while I watched the sun go down; about the only time we saw it during the whole voyage. However, the rolling continued. I staggered bleary-eyed down to breakfast on Tuesday and told Sharon, the steward, about my sleepless night, being flung from side to side. “Sleep on your couch” he said “we all do at times like this”. All the cabins have their bunks fitted fore and aft, whereas the couches are at right-angles to these, port to starboard. So, the following night I did his bidding and, sure enough, sleeping head to toe in the direction of the rolling made an enormous difference; I slept reasonably well. Although a state of the art ship, less than two years old, this seems to be a design fault. The cabins could easily have been set up the other way at the fitting out stage. The 1st mate told me that the ship was really designed for work in and around the Baltic and/or Black Seas so perhaps, although perfectly capable of withstanding it and much more, wasn’t expected to put up with this type of rolling.

And so we proceeded across the ‘big pond’. During that time I read three books, did three more thirty minute, ten km virtual bike rides in the gymnasium and watched two DVDs; Broke Back Mountain, which I’d heard about but not seen, and the Alamo, which I last watched about 4 years ago in San Antonio right next to the Alamo itself. I spent one evening after dinner with the crew on their mess deck. It was given over to karaoke – a mindless activity which I normally find difficult to put up with. However, the pictures on the wide screen TV that the karaoke machine was hitched up to were all scenes from in and around the Philippines – very beautiful too. Although I only had a few glasses of wine, the alcohol was flowing freely and some of the singers among the crew were almost professional standard. Although missing home, they were a happy bunch of guys and very good company, so I had an enjoyable evening.

Much of my time on the bridge coincided with the 3rd Mate’s watch. A tall, slim young man of 23 years, he was rather shy and reticent during the early part of the voyage but I eventually got to know him quite well. He told me all about his sea training in college in the Philippines, his cadetship, his family and girlfriend back home, and we discussed Filipino politics; much of what I remember was from before he was born. I watched him at work – he certainly knew his stuff.

I was idly playing around with the automatic tuner on the FM receiver in my cabin on Friday 15th, not expecting to hear anything at all when, all of a sudden, it stopped on some music, which was quickly followed by Gaelic speaking. It was RTE; we were off the coast of Ireland. Back on the bridge, I was able to see the cost and plot the various lighthouses and land marks on the chart. Once we rounded the south-eastern tip and were heading north, we were surrounded by fishing boats; seen firstly as a multitude of blips on the radar screen, then as lights, mostly in pairs, all around, making the watch keepers task more arduous.

To enter the container terminal at Liverpool Docks, ships have to lock out of the Mersey and the master had pre-booked the lock for 1730 hours on Saturday 16th, which meant that we had some waiting to do. I awoke at 0430 hours and looked out of the cabin window. I could see lights off the starboard bow. “This must be Wales” I said to myself; and so it was. The anchor went down at 0520 hours. We were in a bay on the east side of Anglesey Island at the northwest tip of Wales. When I eventually went to the bridge, I could see nine other ships riding at anchor in the bay. This was obviously a convenient waiting point prior to entering the Mersey and Dee Rivers further along the coast. Back in my cabin I managed to find my favourite talk radio station – BBC Radio 4. The dulcet tones of John Humphries assailed my ears. Not my favourite presenter but familiar all the same. On my next trip to the bridge I was surprised to find all the other ships in the bay in different positions; totally confusing until I realised that the wind direction had changed so that all the ships appeared to have moved in relation to one another.

After numerous conversations on VHF with the Liverpool Port Authorities, we up-anchored and got underway again at 1300 hours. As we did a wide sweep in order to go about and head east down the North Wales coast, a pilot cutter left from a jetty on Anglesey and cruised steadily towards us, finally pulling along our starboard side, where the pilot scrambled up a ladder, met the first officer who then brought him to the bridge. Once he’d got his breath back and the introductions were made, he and the master disappeared below, after leaving instructions to head on a certain bearing to a point in the Mersey Estuary then call him. Once we’d reached the predetermined point, the suitably rested pilot, plus master, returned to the bridge. The pilot took over. By this time a helmsman had joined us on the bridge, taken the wheel and was responding to the pilots shouted bearings as we made our way between the marker buoys down the shipping lane towards the docks. I could see the skyline of Liverpool, including the unmistakable shape of the Liver Building, on the horizon against a darkening sky. We passed a couple of ferry boats heading out towards Ireland and made it to the lock entrance by 1700 hours. As we waited for another ship to exit the gates, the pilot radioed the lock keeper and negotiated an early entry into the lock. Having steered a 50 foot narrow boat in and out of canal locks many times, I had some idea of the task in hand. But taking a 169 m long, fully laden containership, with tug boats which by now were secured to either end, into a lock basin not much longer than the ship itself, and all with out touching the sides, is on a different scale completely. Members of the crew were stationed fore and aft to handle ropes and were being controlled over hand-held radios by the master. The 1st mate controlled the bow and stern thrusters from the slave console at the starboard end of the bridge. The pilot, in overall charge, had the daunting task of controlling everything, either by radio or word of mouth. They were all clustered into one end of the bridge. I watched in admiration, out of the way in the centre of the bridge.

We were tied up alongside ready for the cranes to start operating by 1815 hours. The pilot, a Liverpudlian, living across the border in North Wales, admitted that taking ships through the lock was a very stressful operation. He was in his early sixties but didn’t look it, and only three days away from retirement. Before leaving the ship, he showed me on the map roughly were the docks were in relation to Liverpool City and gave me some directions to the East Lancs Road, my route to Manchester the following morning. I wished him well and a long and happy retirement. He wished me the best of luck with my future travels. One last dinner in the officer’s mess and so to bed. The scene outside my cabin window was whirring cranes and swinging containers – just like Montreal.

I breakfasted promptly at 7.30 on Sunday 17th December, moved my panniers and other luggage down to deck six, retrieved my bike, which had been stored in a small cabin next to the containers, and carried it up to deck six, all ready to leave the ship down the self same gangway that I’d used to board it in Montreal. I said my goodbyes to the members of crew who were up and about on deck and a couple of them helped me take everything down to the quay; it was lower this time, consequently, the gangway was steeper. It took two of us to carry the bike down. I stood it in a spot near the ship out of the way of the cranes and where it wouldn’t disrupt the mini buses and vans that were buzzing about. No sooner had I started attaching the panniers than I heard a broad scouse accent announce “you’re not f—–g takin’ that thing off the dock!” It took a few seconds for me to realise that he was addressing me. I had the confidence of being back in my own country and wasn’t about to accept such dictates from petty officials, so I decided to answer in kind. “It left Harwich with me seventeen months ago and it’s f—–g well going home with me now” I responded. I think this rather took him by surprise and he softened somewhat when I explained that I’d been a passenger on the ship and was returning home. “Well, you can’t ride it off the dock” was his second shot. “Then I’ll walk” I said. “You can’t walk around the dock”. “Well it’s leaving the dock with me. You tell me how I do that then” And so the conversation continued until finally he agreed to take me in his minibus after he’d completed his present task. I waited. A little further along the dock were three men in yellow overcoats stood talking next to an open-backed pickup truck. I strolled over and introduced myself and inquired if any of them was the driver of the truck. One replied that he was so I asked him if he could give me, my bike and luggage a lift to the dock gates. He readily agreed and, inevitably my story came out. I got many handshakes and congratulations and, very quickly, six willing hands lifting my bike and luggage into the back of the truck. In a couple of minutes I was deposited just inside the main dock gates; more handshakes and the truck sped off. As I again started loading everything onto the bike, the dock policeman came out of the gatehouse and in another broad scouse accent asked if I wanted a cup of tea. I thanked him very much but declined, saying that I’d not long ago had breakfast aboard ship. With bike loading completed, the same policemen lifted the barrier, I gave him a wave and pedalled away from the docks. It occurred to me a few yards down the road that no one had asked to see my passport or any form of paperwork, nor had I offered any of it to anyone. I’d re-entered Britain without any checks whatsoever. So much for the facade of security!

When I awoke on the ship and whilst I breakfasted, the rain had been falling steadily, but when I left the ship, it had stopped. The Radio 4 forecast was for a dry day but the colour of the sky belied that prediction. Back in Canada, I’d downloaded a map from the internet and knew that my best cycling route from Liverpool to Manchester was the A580, the East Lancs Road. So, armed with this map, my son Martin’s directions sent by e mail some weeks ago (he and my daughter-in-law, Carrie, had moved house since I left home) and the pilot’s instructions from the evening before, I set off towards Liverpool City. I got as far as Bootle and judged that it was about time to turn left and head east to pick up the A580. Sure enough, I soon saw the route number sign-posted, bracketed at first until I reached the actual road itself. I got as far as Knowlesly with 13 km on the clock and the rain started again; drizzle at first but then the real stuff. I stopped, donned my full wet weather gear and continued on. There’s really not much else one can say about a ride in the rain between Liverpool and Manchester, except to relate that it gets quite rural between the two conurbations; rural enough to sport hedgerows which enable a cyclist to stop and answer a call of nature! It wasn’t long before I got to the turn off for my son’s house and, following his directions, by 11.30, and with 46 km on the clock, I was knocking on the front door of their new house. Martin opened the door, chewing the last of his Sunday brunch. Carrie, was upstairs on the phone. Domestic normality. I was home.

I’ve joined the 21st Century again and re-activated my mobile phone – 07950 250983 Callers welcome – but at sensible hours please.

Happy Christmas to everyone.

Welcome from a Crisp, Snowy Montreal

December 7th, 2006


As with most of this journey, making it back to England hasn’t gone exactly to plan. I’ve just got off the phone to the shipping agents here in Montreal and the MV Reinbek has been delayed; it’s not now due to arrive in Montreal until Thursday 7th December, with a projected sailing date of Friday or Saturday 8th/9th.

All the scheduled activities mentioned in the last report came to pass before leaving Halifax. Mike, an electronics engineer with the Canadian Coastguard, gave me and extensive guided tour of two of the ice-breakers that were moored in Halifax Harbour – the Louis St Lawrence and the Terry Fox. My principal interest when initially boarding both ships was the bridge and radio rooms, the communications and navigational equipment, but everything else was fascinating too, especially the engine room aboard the St Louis. Five enormous diesel engines produce electricity, which powers turbines, which in turn drives three large prop shafts, each with two propellers; thus enabling the ship to punch its way through the arctic ice. From the bowels of the engine room looking up to the top of the engines was dizzy-making; standing on the quay along side the ship one couldn’t begin to appreciate the scale of such things. Aside from their ice-breaking role, both ships often covey scientists and researchers out into the ocean in order to conduct their work, consequently, the quarters and amenities for both passengers and crew were, perhaps not quite cruise liner standards, but nevertheless, modern, comfortable and up to date. There were gymnasia, satellite TV, games rooms, a computer suite with internet access and the galley looked and smelled to be turning out appetizing fare; supper was being prepared for the skeleton crew while we were aboard. I would very much liked to have sailed in one of the ships.

My subsequent meetings with Dorothy the publishing consultant were successful too. She’s given me much to do if I’m going to turn blog into manuscript. Perhaps I can make some inroad into this work on the voyage home.

Marlien, the Dutch artist, and I drove the eighty km or so to Truro with her pictures and photographs in the back of the car and then set everything up in a small gallery inside the town’s community cum cultural centre. There was a well attended opening reception with nibbles and wine to start off the viewing that evening, after which we made our way back in the cold and dark to Halifax. Marlien’s work falls into two categories. Firstly, she’s an abstract artist using acrylics and water colours. Secondly, she takes photographs of rock formations, enlarges them then mounts them between glass in conventional picture frames or on blocks of wood. They’re very beautiful and eye-catching pieces of work. The following weekend, I spent time with her at the local Christmas arts and crafts fair helping to look after her stand there.

Before leaving Halifax I also managed to visit the house of James Forman, the ‘bent banker’ ancestor of my friend back home in Wales. The author of his biography, Pat Lotz, and her husband still live in the house, although it has now been altered somewhat and turned into four or five individual dwellings, one of which they occupy. They’re both ex-patriot Brits who’ve been in Canada since the 1950’s and made me extremely welcome. Over tea and biscuits, in addition to relating parts of Forman’s history, they regaled me with stories of Halifax, Nova Scotia and Canada generally. Jim Lotz, an author too, gave me couple of his books, which I’m looking forward to reading on my way home. An enjoyable lunch with Madeleine, the Librarian from St Mary’s University, also a long time expatriate from Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, added to my knowledge of the town, Nova Scotia and Canada in general. I had many more encounters too numerous to mention which kept me busy and it was soon time to leave Halifax and head back west for the first leg of my long journey home to the east.

On Friday 1st December, I cycled with fully laden bike down to Halifax Railway Station under a leaden sky and in double figure temperatures. The train to Montreal wasn’t due to leave till 12.35 but, as suggested to me on a prior recce visit to the station, if I arrived by 9.30 am, the airport-style checking in of my bike and panniers could be dealt with in plenty of time. I got there at the appointed time, just before heavy rain set in for the day. The first thing to do was to exchange my e mail confirmation for an actual ticket. The paperwork warned me that I would have to produce the credit card that I’d used to make the purchase, plus some photographic ID; Once I’d given him a printout of the e mail, the booking office clerk issued my ticket without asking for anything. The baggage office staff seemed equally relaxed. They gave me one of their reusable cardboard bike boxes and left me to prepare everything for the journey. The box was much bigger than any I could have obtained from a bike shop. All I needed to do was remove the pedals and swivel the handlebars to be in line with the frame, and I was able to wheel the bike straight into it. There was still room for the front panniers and tent bag, so I put them in the box too and taped up its ends. Although in large lettering and very clear, it was only after sealing it that I took any notice of the writing on the side of the box. There was a bold black arrow accompanying the words ‘this way up’ – the problem was that the arrow pointed downwards. I was on the verge of ignoring it, thinking that it wouldn’t make any difference, then changed my mind. The railway had been efficient enough to provide a very good bike container and their conditions of carriage were such that they took liability for damage as long as the bike was boxed. If anything did go wrong, I didn’t want to give them any room to wriggle out of such an undertaking so, I decided to cut the tape, unpack everything and re pack it properly. My small backpack, which had travelled all the way bungeed on the rear carrier above the tent, plus the bar bag, would accompany me as ‘carry-on’ luggage. This just left the two large rear panniers to be checked in along with the bike box. I strapped them together to make one item of luggage, paid the $20 baggage charge and went off to the nearby Tim Horton’s for a coffee and muffin. With the unusually high temperatures outside and a heated main hall at the station, I’d got quite sweated-up preparing everything for check-in and was in need of sustenance. I returned from the coffee shop just in time to see one of the baggage handlers upending my bike box onto a trolley ready to be loaded onto the train. Luckily my bike wheels are 28”, the maximum size for the box. Consequently, it fit snugly at both ends. The upending that I witnessed must have been onto the front wheel and not the rear mudguard because, when I subsequently unpacked it at Montreal Station, it had made the journey unscathed.

A couple of weeks into my stay in Halifax, I accompanied Jane to the Tavern at Prospect Bay to attend the weekly trivia quiz night – very enjoyable it was too. One of the other ‘quizzers’ happened to work for Via Rail, the Canadian passenger train company, and when he discovered that I was travelling to Montreal on the 1st of December, told me that he would be the Train Manager for that journey. Vincent greeted me like a long-lost friend as I approached the gate which lets out onto the platform at just after midday, and by the time the train pulled out of the station at 12.35, he’d introduced me to all the his staff, with the consequence that I was well looked after throughout the trip. I settled down in my aircraft-style seat, with a book to hand, alternately reading and watching Nova Scotia go by through the window. When we pulled out of Halifax, the train was probably less than 1/3 full and I got to thinking that this can’t be a very profitable enterprise running, as it was, with so few passengers. However, we were soon pulling out of Truro where many more people boarded, with the same thing happening at all stops as we gradually made our way west.

Sat across the aisle from me was a large woman with a one year old baby boy named Isaiah, although she pronounced it in a way that I didn’t at first recognise. She was taking him home after a stay in Halifax Hospital having undergone an operation on a cleft palette. He was wearing arm restraints on each elbow to prevent him from putting his fingers in his mouth and upsetting the surgery. He must have been uncomfortable but he had a natural curiosity and peaceful disposition, which helped to keep him calm and stop him crying. I was partially successful with my baby-sitting attempts in keeping him satisfied whilst mum ate, went to the loo etc. Isaiah and his mum left the train at Moncton, just across the boarder in New Brunswick, by which time the weather had changed quite drastically. It was well below freezing outside as I helped her down onto the platform with feet sinking into a good few cm of snow. More people boarded the train and when we pulled out of Moncton, it was nearly full. The first call for dinner came over the tannoy and I made my way to the dining car. I looked out of the window as I ate my very tasty, reasonably priced and, by Canadian standards, not too large three course meal. The snow was falling heavily now in big flakes turning the whole landscape white; this was the stereotypical Canada that I’d been expecting all along.

Readers may recognise the town names above as the reverse of my cycling route of the month before but soon after Moncton, the railway veered north in order, one supposes, to avoid the hills that I cycled over after leaving the St Lawrence River. Not that such hills were high enough to make them insurmountable by the railroad engineers. From what I saw in the Rockies, the ingenuity of the railroad pioneers was incredible. They were able to overcome the most difficult obstacles in order to get over the mountains. But, of course, they had little choice. However, here in the east, the option of skirting the hills was available so, why bother going into such civil engineering contortions when a flatter, albeit, slightly more circuitous route was available. Thus it was that we joined the St Lawrence River at a place called Rimouski, far further north and east than the point where I’d left it whilst cycling. We then followed the River through the night, arriving at Riviere Du-Loup, where I’d left it, in the early hours of the morning. Then on through Quebec City and finally, after an excellent breakfast, and over 21 hours of travelling, we pulled into downtown Montreal at just before nine in the morning.

I bade farewell to Vincent and his staff and rode the escalator up from the platform to the main station concourse. Whilst looking for the luggage carousel, I heard my name being called, looked round and caught sight of Henry, friend of Hannah and Victor, hurrying over; I was glad to see him. Although there was no snow laying on the roads in the City, it was bitterly cold so, after Henry and I had unpacked my bike and reclaimed my panniers, I was grateful for the lift to Hannah and Victor’s house.

That was last Saturday. It’s now Thursday. I have to be on board the MV Reinbek at 1400 hours tomorrow, Friday 8th December, to meet an immigration official in order to ‘clear’ Canada, and be ready for a 2200 hour sailing tomorrow evening. Victor told me a story about an annual custom. Each spring, the master of the first vessel that makes it through the melting ice to Montreal, is presented with a silver cane. It’s below freezing outside as I type this. The forecast is for minus double figure temperatures over night, but I’m confident that the Reinbek can make it out of Montreal before the River freezes over. Three days up the St Lawrence, then five across the North Atlantic, and I should be in Liverpool – back in dear ole’ Blighty!

I’ll report on the veritable social whirl, which has been my very pleasant lot for the past six days, when I get home. Or, if the ship has an e mail facility, I might try and post a quickie from mid Atlantic.

More later

Halifax Nova Scotia - Hub of the Atlantic Coast

November 19th, 2006


I’ve been in Halifax for over a fortnight now and it’s still another 13 days until I catch the train back to Montreal ready to join the ship. If I’m to be totally truthful, I’m suffering from slight feelings of impatience now and again; my cycle ride is over and I really would like to be home. However, it’s hard to think of a better place to be, or nicer people to be with, while I kill time. Actually, ‘killing time’ is probably the wrong expression; so far, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed myself – and there’s more to come.

A day by day account of the last couple of weeks wouldn’t be appropriate here, so I’ll just write about a few of the highlights; but first a little bit about the City itself. From a European perspective, Halifax was founded by the British during the time of their wars against the French but Native American involvement, of course, goes way back beyond that. No longer referred to as a city, the current ‘Regional Municipality’ encompasses many of the adjacent communities which were formally towns and cities in their own right; just as has happened with many of our metropoli back home. Halifax Harbour, and the adjoining Bedford Basin further in land, makes it one of the safest, easily defended and most convenient sea ports in the world. This was especially useful during WWII. Convoys, which formed Britain’s life-line during the early years of the conflagration, were marshalled and made ready in the inner basin, out of reach of the U boats lurking in the ocean just off the coast. Losses during the subsequent North Atlantic crossings were horrendous at first but at least the ships’ crews had a chance to prepare for the ordeal in comparative safety. Much more of the history and geography of the area can be gleaned from links to the web site – click on ‘Route so Far’ and the appropriate red dot.

In the best possible way, I’ve been doing what I’m told to do, and going where I’m told to go, by my numerous hosts. So, over the last couple of weeks, I’ve been based alternately in: West Quaddy, near Port Dufferin, 140 km up the coast from Halifax, at the home of Marika, Elizabeth and Karin; on the shores of Prospect Bay, 26 km from town, the home of Paul the architect and his wife, Jane; and in the flat above Paul’s office, 3 km from downtown. All three are great places to be. The first two are extremely picturesque, quiet and peaceful, set amongst the woods and hills of rural Nova Scotia, with extensive sea views in both cases. And the third, being so close town, is also quiet but allows me to sample the delights of Halifax either on foot or by bicycle.

Having access to Paul’s office facilities has proved a real boon. This was especially so during the early part of my stay when my main preoccupation was with securing the sea passage home. As reported last time, it proved impossible to obtain a berth from Halifax to anywhere in Europe but a small company operating out of Connecticut in the US has managed to get me booked onto a freighter sailing from Montreal to Liverpool in early December. The bureaucracy surrounding this enterprise has been almost stifling. Firstly, payment had to be made by bank transfer. Moving money from an account in one currency to an account in another, using a bank operating in yet another, isn’t easy. But, I have to say that the staff at the CIBC branch here in Halifax, after scratching their heads for a minute or two, were incredibly helpful. Then there was the medical. Because the ship doesn’t carry a doctor, the company insisted on me obtaining a certificate deeming me fit to travel. Gwen, a retired nurse, introduced me to a local GP who conducted the examination and completed then signed the company form. She included the word ‘excellent’ in front of the numbers indicating my blood pressure, adding ‘patient able to cycle round the world’. We didn’t talk much about my knees though! The next hurdle was insurance. The policy I’ve had whilst travelling, and which doesn’t expire until January ’07, would, no doubt cover me for the voyage but, for obvious reasons, I only left home with the reference number, the company name and emergency telephone details; not enough to satisfy Maris, the shiping company. Consequently, I’ve had to buy separate insurance to cover this passage. Add in all the waivers, indemnities, missives telling me that ‘cargo takes precedence over passengers’ and numerous pages containing ‘advice for passengers on cargo ships’, and there’s been umpteen faxes and e mails flying back and forth between Connecticut and Halifax. There’s a thick paper file sitting on the office desk – but my berth aboard the freighter Reinbek is now secure – I think!

In the midst of all the above was the Green Party Conference, mentioned in the last report. It went very well. The first of a series of conferences in cities all over Canada, its theme was broadly economic. The task was to come up with suggestions as to how both national and provincial fiscal mechanisms could be used to bias the economy towards a cleaner environment; or, in other words, how to tax those engaged in activities that pollute but reward, in the form of rebates, ‘virtuous’ activity. The results of our deliberations were to be fed back to Green Party Headquarters and would be used to inform future party policies. The speakers were all good; some excellent and very inspiring. I got involved in the sub-group work and was able to throw in my t’pence worth now and again. As a result of Karin’s press release, I’d received a telephone call the evening before from the newsroom of the Halifax Chronicle Herald. Consequently, one of the reporters tasked with covering the conference was also asked to interview me. We got together at lunch time and a small article duly appeared in the paper’s Sunday edition.

Back at Prospect Bay on the day after the conference, Paul and I set off on Sunday morning with the aim of riding to Peggy’s Cove, a little fishing community some 20 km away; the idea being to have breakfast there and ride home. On the first hill, I managed to break the chain on my borrowed bicycle. Paul graciously suggested that there was something wrong with the gearing set up but, if truth be known, it was down to me being clumsy with the sleek new road machine and its unfamiliar gear changing mechanism, integral to the break leavers and with front and rear changers on opposite sides to those of my British bike. Luckily, we weren’t far from home so were able to walk back the couple of km, stopping to chat with neighbours along the way. Once home, we transferred to mountain bikes and toured around local dirt roads instead, calling in on other neighbours.

True to her word, Marika passed my details onto Dorothy, a publishing consultant friend of hers. Dorothy and I had an initial meeting at which she agreed to read the raw material straight from this blog to see if it had any potential as a published work. She required paper copy, so I downloaded the 104 reports to a word file then printed them out – all 376 A4 pages. How I found time to scribble all that rubbish I’ll never know! Anyway, I handed the document over to her at out next meeting and she’s busy reading it now. She’s promised to produce a critique on the work and we’re due to get together again on Tuesday next. I’m waiting with baited breath!

Before coming to Canada I subscribed to the stereotypical view of it being completely frozen over and covered with snow for six months of the year. Of course this is the case in some parts of this vast and beautiful land; temperatures of –30 have already been recorded further north and west. However, Atlantic Canada’s weather seems just as perverse and variable as ours back home. For example, a few days ago, Prospect Bay, a quite large inlet from the ocean, thus salt water, was completely covered in a thin layer of ice and the wind was bitingly cold. Yet, a couple of days later, everyone, including me, was wandering around in T shirts lapping up the warm sunshine. Yesterday, Nova Scotia enjoyed temperatures higher than those in Florida.

Just such a summer-like day dawned last Saturday. The 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month is commemorated here in an almost identical way to Britain. It currently has even more poignancy given the recent Canadian fatalities in Afghanistan. Those who know me will be aware that I certainly don’t support the west’s activities in that country. However, having served with Canadians as a UN soldier back in the 60s, I have a high regard for their forces but thoroughly deplore the politicians who sent them there. Recent polls report that only a minority of the population support the present policy; exit strategies are being mooted. Anyway, I digress. I’d chosen that day to do the ‘tourist’ thing around the City and arrived at a point near to but just below the Citadel, an old fortification dug into the top of a hill overlooking the main town, at the start of a 21-gun salute. In fact the first round made me jump but, as soon as I realised what it was, enticed me to hurry to where the noise was coming from. In the time-honoured way, a minute elapsed between each round so, after climbing the steps up to the top of the hill, I was in plenty of time to watch the display. Three 25 pounder, or their modern equivalent, guns were drawn up in line at the entrance to the Citadel. Each had a three-man gun crew, smartly clad in No 1 dress, and a sergeant-major stood at the rear barking out the fire orders. Again, having spent time with an artillery brigade and doing communications for a gunner regiment, I was familiar with kneeling gun drill; thus able to cast a critical eye over this performance. I can report that the local lads acquitted themselves favourably. Once the salute was over and the guns taken out of action, it was time for a look round the military museum housed in the Citadel itself. Exhibits were on display going right back to the first days of European settlement and forward to both world wars and more recent times. The later displays had me reminiscing in a similar way to my visit to the army museum in Rawalpindi, all those months ago. At midday, another boom rang out. This time it was from an ancient cannon, one of many placed around the Citadel’s ramparts. I hurried up some nearby wooden steps just in time to see the gun crew, dressed in 18th or 19th Century uniforms, bringing the cannon out of action and packing away their equipment, whist explaining how they did everything to a cluster of other tourists. This cannon is fired at 12 noon on every day of the year. (Readers might like to go to the aforementioned home page link to find out about the history of this practice; plus details of the First World War ammunition ship explosion, which killed thousands and demolished a large part of Halifax – the biggest man-made explosion prior to atomic detonation)

From the Citadel it was a short walk down to the centre of town where people in every type of uniform were milling about, stood round in clusters talking, or simply dispersing; a post Remembrance Day Parade scene typical of every town back in UK.

They grow not old, as we who remain grow old
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn
At the going down of the sun, and in the morning
We shall remember them

Next stop was the Atlantic Maritime Museum right on the waterfront. This had enough to keep one interested for hours. Its largest area of themed exhibits was given over to the sinking of the Titanic; many of those who perished, and those among the survivors, hailed from, or were bound for, Halifax. Most of the rest of the place was given over to shipwrecks too. Apparently, this coastline contains the largest number of wrecks anywhere in the world. It all served to demonstrate what a dangerous and unpredictable place the North Atlantic is, both in war and peace time. Given my imminent undertaking, it did occur to me that perhaps this wasn’t the best place to be right now! I enjoyed it though.

Further along the harbour was Pier 21, a massive L shaped warehouse shed-like structure, now turned into a museum. This place really had seen a large chunk of Canada’s history. It was here that most migrants entered the country prior to air travel. Apart from the extensive array of exhibits, a film-cum-slide show was featured; a sort of docu-drama showing troops embarking for European wars, then later disembarking in much smaller numbers, wounded, dishevelled and demoralised, followed by war brides after WWII, then migrants of all types from all over the world, passing through the building and being processed by immigration, customs and medical officials, and moving straight onto trains bound for all destinations west. It was a cleverly crafted piece of work, giving one a real sense of how modern Canada is made up and its recent history. All in all, my ‘tourist’ day was an excellent one.

Paul flew out of Halifax this morning bound for Montreal, then onto Europe for a few weeks. As a consequence of this trip, he was on a deadline to ‘clear his desk’ at work and complete some domestic chores before departing. One of the latter was the ‘winterizing’ of his boats. He had previously put his small cruiser onto a trailer and dragged it out of the water. Up at first light and before he left for work, I helped him run fresh water through the cooling system of its outboard motor and drain it of fuel by running it dry. Before I joined him that morning, he’d already brought the inflatable Zodiac round from his small wooden pontoon and pulled it up the beach. It took both of us to lift the outboard motor out of the boat, fix it to a temporary stand and give the same water and fuel-draining treatment. Then my job for the day was to clean the Zodiac; scrubbing it with detergent in order to remove all traces of barnacles, slime and salt water. Put like that, it doesn’t sound like much of a task but it wasn’t till early afternoon that I had it re-inflated and was giving it a final hosing down.

The job had me reminiscing again. I recalled the last time I’d had anything to do with inflatables. It was in Aden in the mid sixties. I was attached to 45 Royal Marine Commando, helping them to set up a radio network for their port security force. They were using Geminis with powerful Mercury outboard engines to patrol the harbour, checking on the movements of ships, dhows and local boat traffic. In those days, installing radios in rubber craft so that they operated reliably was a whole new departure, but I had great fun bouncing across the waves in the company of the marines. I remember an early morning patrol with one of the corporals coxing the boat who prided himself on his boat handling skills, and who used to race up to a buoy and peel off at the last moment. The trouble that morning was that he was still the worse for wear from the previous night’s booze, miss-judged his turn and flipped the boat over. The result was five green berets, accompanied by one dark blue one, floating across the briny, and a nearly new, expensive Mercury engine at the bottom of the harbour. We all laughed about it except Cpl X (I still remember his name – but you never know who might read this), the cox, who was hauled up before the CO and heavily fined over the incident. Navy divers recovered the engine.

I digress again. That evening, Paul and I were able to deflate it again and store it in the basement for the winter. It was hard, unfamiliar physical work but I was particularly pleased to be doing it. At last it had given me an opportunity to ‘sing for my supper’ so to speak; to repay some of the hospitality that I’ve been receiving all this time.

I’ve used the bike occasionally to cycle around town but the only substantial ride with it fully laden was the 26 km out to Paul and Jane’s house at Prospect Bay. I’ve eaten too much and got out of condition. I was blowing like a beluga whale on the first substantial hill. My knees are a lot better though. By the time I get home I’ll be fatter than when I left!

Talking of leaving, I’ve booked a train ticket to Montreal for the 1st of December. It’s a 21hour journey and, with the time difference, I should arrive there on the morning of the 2nd. I don’t have to board the Reinbek till the 5th so, this will give me ample opportunity to meet up again with my hosts in Montreal, and cope with any delays that may occur due to bad weather. I’ve plenty more to do in Halifax first though. Scheduled for next week are: another meeting with Dorothy the publisher; a trip out to Truro (I stayed there on the way) with Marlene, an artist, to help set up an exhibition in a gallery; lunch with the librarian from St Mary’s University; a visit to one of the ice breaker ships in the harbour, arranged by Mike, husband of Gwen the aforementioned nurse; and I must find time to do some research for a friend back home. She has an infamous ancestor from Halifax. He was a banker here who defrauded all and sundry. A book was written about him and I’ve managed to track down its author who currently lives in what was his house. I have address and phone number but haven’t yet made contact. Life is nothing if not varied!

When I sat down to compose this, I expected it to be a short report updating everyone on my time in Halifax. Instead it’s turned into a bit of an epic, and I certainly haven’t covered everything. Let me finish with one piece of reflection. It’s simple really, obvious one might say. Apart from any environmental consideration, all the positive experiences that I’ve had on the journey; all the wonderful people I’ve met and all the kindnesses meted out to me are down to one thing only – my means of transport. If I had arrived by plane, boat, bus or train in any of these places, I’d have been just another traveller, perhaps treated kindly but probably largely ignored. But arriving by bicycle is another matter. People are immediately interested; it opens all the doors. The bicycle is the key. For me, now, it’s the only way to travel.

More later.

The Ride is over – But the Journey not yet Completed

November 3rd, 2006


Firstly, I need to say a great big thank you to everyone who’s sent congratulatory e mails; it’s been most heartening and I’ll get round to answering in due course.

Since arriving in Halifax it seems as if I’ve been on an endless round of meeting interesting people. After visiting the site of an new shore side house that they intend to build, I spent the first night at the home Paul, an architect friend of Marika’s, also on the shore not far from Halifax. Most of the following morning was spent in Paul’s town practice office finishing and filing the last report, then it was time to go off with Marika, Karen and Elizabeth to stay at their country home in Quaddy, on the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia, 140 km from Halifax. So, I’m now living in the lap of luxury, overlooking a beautiful bay, with Marika, Karen, Elizabeth, two dogs and two cats.

Things are happening. Yesterday, Thursday 2nd November, Karen organised a press release regarding my arrival and completion of a RTW bicycle ride. Later that day, Marika received a phone call from a lawyer friend who told her of a report on local radio of ‘some guy who’d just arrived in Halifax after cycling round the world’. Marika and Karen are highly accomplished people in many fields; both are academics, writers and sailors and play a leading role in the Nova Scotia branch of Canada’s Green Party. I’ve tried to keep abreast of political goings on whilst I’ve been in the country and was aware of the fact that the Party had recently elected a new charismatic national leader who is presently contesting a by-election in an attempt to secure a seat in the Federal parliament. Meanwhile, the governing Conservative Party is quietly manoeuvring Canada away from its commitments to reduce greenhouse gas causing emissions, in line with the Kyoto Agreement, via a new environmental policy, which is ‘soft’ on the polluters. So, with this back-drop, a National Green Party conference here in Halifax is scheduled for Saturday 4th October, two days away. Marika and Karen are the main organisers and currently very busy putting the finishing touches to the event. I’m invited and, needless to say, extremely interested. Marika is a publisher in her own right, and I’ve also met a publisher in Halifax so, I’m receiving plenty of advice regarding the possibilities of turning this blog into a book. I need to mention Elizabeth here too. She’s now a Canadian citizen but French by birth. A retired MD and psychiatrist, who practiced for most of her working life in Motreal, she’s also a sailor. I couldn’t wish for more interesting and stimulating companions for my stay in Halifax.

It’s occurred to me that, from the title of this report, readers might assume that I’m referring to the ‘spiritual’ aspect of the journey not yet being over. However, my meaning is far more prosaic. Despite the many cargo ships sailing from Halifax to Europe, including UK, and the extensive network of contacts available to my hosts, we’ve drawn a blank in obtaining a sea passage home for me. However, one specialist travel agent introduced us to an organisation operating from Connecticut, south of the border, who organise berths for passengers on specially adapted cargo ships. It’s a small outfit but seems to operate worldwide. I’ve yet to deal with their bureaucracy – application and reservation forms etc – but they’ve provisionally offered me a berth on a ship sailing between Montreal and Liverpool on the 6th December. It’ll cost somewhat more than the air fare but will go a long way to satisfying the environmentally friendly aspects of the trip. And, having cycled alongside much of the St Lawrence, both north and south banks on different stretches, it’ll be great to sail up the middle Add on a winter crossing of the North Atlantic and I have a fitting end to the journey. There is, as usual, a couple of downside considerations to the plan. Firstly, it means back-tracking to Montreal, but I’m told this could be easily done with the bicycle by train; overnight apparently. Secondly, four weeks delay in Canada. I anticipated having to spend some ‘days’ in Halifax – perhaps even a week – but not over four. My hosts are busy people. I must try and find a way of being useful without getting in their way.

The spiritual journey continues of course.

More later

Welcome from Halifax, Nova Scotia - The end of the Ride - RTW - Mission accomplished

November 1st, 2006


Three more main towns are on my route to Halifax - Moncton, Amherst and Truro. So, on Thursday 26th October, I set off for Moncton knowing that it was too far to reach in one day. The motelier where I was staying, 10 km west of Fredericton, was very knowledgible and helpful. He checked the map with me and pointed out the only place to stay that he knew of en route; McCreedy’s Motel at the junction of Young’s Cove Road and Highway 2. He seemed sure but I made a mental note to check somewhere else on the way if I got the chance. I’ve been given well meaning but duff information before! I followed route 102 along the river in and through Fredericton with the intention of rejoining the Trans Canada, Highway 2, at about 12 km the other side of town. I stopped at a convenient garage for a sandwich for the road and checked my route with the woman behind the till. She advised me to make a right at the next lights and head out to Highway 2 straight away rather than following the river. This I did, but I’ll never know whether it was the best way or not. The first part of it was a steep climb up through an industrial estate, obviously not as picturesque as the river, then I joined highway 7, which I could see from the map, was going in the right direction and led onto highway 2. It didn’t seem any further but it was probably more hilly.

I was soon cruising gracefully along Highway 2 with a tail wind, albeit a very cold one, allowing me to make good time. I had 40 km on the clock by 10 am and was feeling good. The road ran through dense forrest on either side and there were precious few signs of habitation. This stretch was reminiscent of Nothern Ontario - empty of people. At 60 km, I could see an isolated garage at a junction just off the highway, so I pull in for coffee. A woman in the garage confirmed what I’d been told about accommodation and was quite catagoric about there being only the one motel between her and Moncton. “McCreedy’s it is then” I said to myself as I rejoined the highway. I was getting cold by now and considered stopping to don another layer of clothing, but the woman had also told me about some lengthy climbs ahead on highway 2 so I resisted. She was right too. After crossing a long and very exposed bridge, I soon hit the first one. I was good and hot by the time I reached its sumit. Another one came up soon afterwards but, with the tailwind, I was still making good time. Eventually, I could see an enormous sign on top of a large pole sticking out of the trees on the horizon and, as I gradually made my way towards it, could make out the junctiion. At 96 km, I pulled off highway 2 and made my way to the bottom of the pole just beyond the junction. This was McCreedy’s. Apart from a small motel, the complex also boasted a petrol station, convenience shop and resturaunt. Catering mainly for the trucking fraternity, the food was surprisingly good. The motel room was basic but comfortable. Unfortunately it didn’t have satelite TV so, no weather channel view that evening.

The convenience store provided a banana, sandwich and muffin for the road, which I was able to purchase after breakfast, before setting off back on highway 2 on Friday 27th October. Although the sun was dazzlingly bright and there was no wind, it was bitterly cold. The ordinary national weather forecast had predicted dawn temperatures at Moncton, my day’s destination, to be -3, and it’s always somewhat warmer in built-up areas. In spite of continuing hills, I made excellent time and stopped by the roadside to eat my lunch at 60 km. Again, no signs of habitation; certainly nowhere to get coffee. It was looking if I’d arrive in Moncton early. I had a couple of things I wanted to do. My last haircut was in Singapore and, as my greying locks were creeping down over my ears and shirt collar, I deemed it time to have another one. My cycling clothes desperately needed washing too, having not seen water other than sweat or rain, since being laundered in Montreal. I normally manage to wash my underpants in the bottom of the shower each evening and get them dry by morning, but everything else just gets mankier day by day. In fact my not very fashionable cycling tousers, made to measure by a Kurdish Tailor in Van, eastern Turkey, were in such a state that they could probably have done the ride by themselves! And my black T shirt, normally the second layer on these cold days, was covered in white sweat lines. At the risk of lowering the tone of this report still further, I can relate becoming rather adept at the Eastern skill of emptying the contents on my nose with thumb and forefinger, instead of the western way of using a handkerchief. I can even do it with gloves on. My sinuses produce mucas in proportion to the size of my nose, so it’s a lot, and constantly. This is all well and good when there’s no wind and my aim is acurate, with the contents making it to the roadway. But, being left-handed, and with a northerly wind, panniers, bike or, more than likely, my clothes, get splattered. Thus, the laundry was becoming even more urgent.

Moncton turned out to be a much bigger town than I expected. A sign on highway 2, some 10 km before I expected to reach it, anounced that the next six exits were for Moncton or its suburbs. I took the first one. With a little bit of zigzagging, I found myself on Main Street (still with Rue in front of Main) and stopped at a Tim Hortons for coffee and information. I got the former but the staff weren’t very forthcomming with the latter. None of them knew of a barber or an internet cafe and could only suggest continuing down main street becuase “there’s bound to be one”. I took their advice and, low and behold, just across the next set of traffic lights, I spotted an old-fashioned red and white pole. In I went for the aforemention